Pruning and Staking Tomatoes – Perfect Techniques

http://www.veseys.com In this video, Vesey’s horticulturist describes the difference between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes as well as the best techn…
Video Rating: 4 / 5

Question by SugarSkull: What is happening to my tomato plants?
I have a huge container garden and my tomato plants are growing strong and fruitful. However I have noticed that the bottom leaves are turning yellow. One plant is really yellow!

What is this and what can I do about it?

Thank you!

Best answer:

Answer by someone satirical
chlorosis, you need to feed them once a week because they quickly use up the nutrients in their soil. Also cut the tops off when they start producing fruit as this concentrates the growth on the fruit and not on growing taller.

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25 Comments

  1. Is she hot or is she hot

  2. I only came here for the hot blonde.

  3. yes – the twine is tight enough that it holds the plants very well and there is very little movement.

  4. If you look really hard, you can see tomato plants

  5. Hi,

    This method prevents the plant from moving back and forth, but what about left and right?

  6. Awesome video, nice work all involved! A lot of good information there, However I still have one question… What are the effects of letting some or all of the suckers grow fully? Will they too produce fruit? If so, how does that effect the overall yield (size of fruit, and quantity)?

    Thanks!
    -Bailey

  7. Awesome, thanks for the quick and informative response 😀

  8. HI Brandon… we use the plastic for a couple of reasons… both to increase the temperature of the soil and also to prevent weeds… it works great.

  9. sorry im a young guy trying to get some knowledge here

  10. is that plastic wrap i see underneath the plants? is it used to prevent caterpillars or bugs?

  11. Thanks for the detailed explanation on staking tomatoes.

  12. I notice your tomato setup ressembles very much my vineyard setup with plastic mulch and treillis

  13. yes – that is just bale twine, and you can buy that at any farm supply store.

  14. Hi lovely planting procedure..can you provide me with a supplier who sells the twine you use? Thank you very much.. Joe @ StateniLand@aol.com

  15. Cu is an essential plant element.

  16. Neem oil at best is a mild IGR insecticide. It costs way to much to extract the azadirachtin regardless of government or god. coppers and sulfurs have been in use for centuries, i.e. bordeaux mixture. They are naturally occurring elements used in concentration. How do you know that Neem oil is safe with no PHI? Just b/c the container says so? I’m not saying that it is or not, fact is that nobody knows. We just think we do and base that off of probabilities.

  17. very informative and well done. I’ll have lots of tomatoes this year!

  18. UNBELIEVABLE! IF ONLY THE PEOPLE WOULD DEMAND THE SAME AMOUNT OF TIME AND RESOURCES SPENT REGULATING THE DIY GROWER OR INDIVIDUAL WOULD BE SPENT REGULATING BIG BUSINESS AND HIGH FINANCE.. A LOT OF MY FAMILY HAS BEEN MOVING UP TO CANADA BUT IT SEEMS LIKE ITS THE SAME GAME JUST DIFFERENT PLAYERS UP THERE. I WISH YOU GUYS THE BEST THOUGH, AND EASY ON THE COPPER, THAT STUFF GETS A NASTY SYSTEMIC BUILD UP WITHIN THE PLANT! AND ON A COMPLETELY UNRELATED NOTE: YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS!! LOL

  19. We’d recommend checking them at least once a week and removing the suckers.

  20. Unfortunately, Neem oil is no longer permitted for use in Canada and cannot be sold here. We’ve had to discontinue selling it because it isn’t registered as a fungicide. We find the best way to deal with blight is to plant blight resistance varieties.

  21. NO

  22. COPPER SULPHATE AND SIMILAR FUNGICIDES/PESTICIDES ARE NOT THE BRIGHTEST WAY TO TREAT PROBLEMS WITH EDIBLES. NEEM OIL CONCENTRATE WILL DO YOUR PLANTS AND CONSUMERS A HUGE FAVOR…

  23. I LIKE THAT IDEA GREAT IDEA

  24. C heck Yahoo News there is a plant nasty taking hold of the East Coast.

  25. there are a lot of things that could cause this; strangely enough, both overwatering and underwatering, excessive and insufficient fertilizer, and early blight. which would be distinguished by patchy yellow blotches…

    when under stress from any of the above, or even from outgrowing the containers you have them in, the response of the plant is to sacrifice the oldest, lower leaves first, and pull the nutrients out of them, keeping the fruit and the new growth going…

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fertilizer_burn
    http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/leaf/salt.html
    http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?p=early+blight+of+tomato&fr=yfp-t-501-s&toggle=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8
    its not uncommon in all tomato plants as the season progress…

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